What’s in the back?

Open a spice drawer and you get a short history of dinner plans. The pepper gets regular work. A bag of something needed for one ambitious Sunday has folded itself behind the cumin. And there’s a jar with no label, which is why you should label jars.

Pick a spice you know and like. Think about how you use it: whole, crushed, ground, added early, scattered over a finished dish. There’s a lot to play with before buying anything. Pepper alone can occupy a very pleasant lunch.

Try a different texture

A piece of cracked pepper gives you a little burst of heat when you bite it. Finely ground pepper spreads through a sauce. Crushing a seed partway leaves another texture again. Pay attention to where you notice the flavor, and how long it stays.

Try small amounts alongside a familiar meal. A mortar lets you stop before everything becomes powder; an electric grinder makes sense for repeated dry batches; a hard-spice mill does a narrower job. Start with the tool you have and see whether there’s anything you actually miss.

Compare grinders, mortars, and hard-spice mills →

Find out who cooks with it

A named spice blend is a good reason to find a cook who knows it well. Read the recipe and the story around it. What food does it accompany? Is it added during cooking or at the table? Those details are often more interesting than the list of spices.

Keep the recipe’s source with your notes. If you change it, say what you changed. You might make a blend you love without needing to declare it the definitive version of somebody else’s dinner.

Make enough to use

Start with a small batch. Label its ingredients, date, and any salt already included. Store it according to the ingredients’ needs, in a suitable dry container, and keep the preparation separate from raw-food handling. If a grinder also handles nuts, account for allergens and clean it as the maker directs.

For a meal around the fire, prepare what you can before leaving the kitchen. A small labeled container is easier to manage than several open jars beside a hot pan. Save your attention for the cooking, the weather, and the people who have come to eat.

Plan dinner before lighting the fire →Compare cookware for the meals you repeat →

Taste it over dinner

Put two small portions of cooked beans, grain, or vegetables on a plate. Season them differently with the same spice and taste. There’s no need for scorecards. Notice which one makes you go back for another forkful, and write that down before the dishes distract you.

← All Dispatch editions

Explore the working kitchen →